Cruising Mexico on yacht Secret O' Life

SV Secret o' Life
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CRUISING MEXICO
Mexico !! Date: 19 November 1999
	Hello from La Paz - Where it's 85-90 degrees and the water is 80. The afternoon breeze keeps the apparent temperature a little lower and the morning and night is just right. So far, I have no complaints !! When I last wrote, I was preparing for the Baja Ha-Ha, a cruiser's rally from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas - and that is now history. This was the sixth annual rally sponsored by "Latitude 38" magazine, and of over 150 boats that registered, about 130 made the finish in Cabo. A large percentage of those have now found their way 150 miles north in the Sea of Cortez to arrive here in La Paz for a spell - and I'm sure several will never go on from here as evidenced by those who have come before and simply stayed. The Ha-Ha started on Oct 26 off the end of Pt. Loma in a nice 12 kt breeze. Tammy had flown into San Diego a few days prior to crew and once across the starting line we decided to head "outside", meaning we would put some distance between us and the shore and leave the Coronados Islands on the port side. The first leg of this rally would take us to Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay), about 360 miles into Mexico. For the most part, the wind stayed with us all the way and we were able to sail the entire leg without reverting to the engine. It was amazing how, within a couple hours of the start, the boats were spread out to the point that we had only 2 or 3 within view. After two and a half days, as we began to close the finish of leg 1, we encountered more and more boats, until arriving in Turtle Bay, we found about half the fleet already at anchor (Hey, I never said this boat was fast!!). The rally sponsors put on a beach party that required a surf landing in the dinghies - that made for an entertaining afternoon. This being our first landfall in Mexico, we had the first experience interacting with the locals and it went quite well. We were actually able to track down a couple of blocks of hielo (ice) in a village where the tienda (store) was more than likely an attachment to someone's small home. The streets of dirt and the warmer temperatures confirmed those previous conceptions of Hot - Dry - Dusty, but the people there were happy - and happy to have so many gringo visitors - it is by far the greatest number of outsiders they see during the year. The rally continued the next morning with an early start. This leg would take us about 240 miles further south to Bahia Santa Maria and after more than 24 hours of beautiful sailing, including 14 hours of spinnaker running, the wind left completely and we gave in to the engine, motoring the last eight hours to the finish. Once into the anchorage we found that only 2 or 3 boats sailed the entire leg, with most boats motoring about the same time as we did. There are no facilities in Santa Maria aside from a small panga fishing camp, but the rally organizers had arranged to have a tent, generator and iced beer brought in to the beach for our second leg party. This dinghy landing required a bar crossing into a quiet lagoon and after watching the surf for a few minutes, it wasn't difficult at all to time the crossing between the surf break. Most of the cruisers made it ashore here and a good party ensued, with several of the local fishermen setting up a barbeque and selling lobster, shrimp and fish dinners, although they had great difficulty keeping up with demand. That evening Tammy and I joined the crew aboard "El Gitano", a Westsail 32 out of Anacortes, for a great pot luck and spent some time watching cruisers as they dinghied around the anchorage, trying to locate their various boats within the group of more than 100 anchor lights bobbing in the bay. Oh, and the wind piped up to 20+ kts, making the travel by dinghy even more interesting. Overnight the wind continued strong, so the early start at 0700 for leg 3 looked promising, but alas, by 0800 it was only a drift, and the final 180 miles to Cabo would go slow. Let me cut this off here and continue later. It's another beautiful morning in La Paz and I must finally get started on a few projects. The next installment of these travels will cover the finish of the Ha-Ha and the trip to La Paz. I'll be here for another 3 weeks and then cross the sea to San Blas, Puerto Vallarta and further south for Christmas. I hope this finds you all doing very well in your various locations and not suffering greatly from the fall/winter weather - AND - Have a Happy Thanksgiving !! Terry, aboard s/v "Secret O' Life" at anchor in La Paz Bay.
Baja Ha-Ha Continues Date: 11 December 1999
	Buenos Dias - or is it Tardes ??? I think I left off as we were over the starting line at Bahia Santa Maria and the wind had gone slack. Fortunately, within an hour it picked up from the right direction and we were once again making good headway toward the finish of leg 3 at Cabo San Lucas, some 180 miles SSE. By 1030 hrs we had set the cruising spinnaker and would sail comfortably with that and a reefed mainsail until sometime after midnight, when the wind shifted enough westerly that we could no longer make a direct course for the tip of Baja. The wind slowly deteriorated through the night and finally at about 10 in the morning I succumbed to the lack of forward progress and started the engine. By noon the temperature was above 90 and we crossed the Tropic of Cancer at 23 degrees 17 minutes N, officially entering the "Tropics" and noted the water temperature was above 80 !!! At 1920 hours we were across the finish line of the "Millenium Ha-Ha". About 2 hours later, after finding the way past Cabo Falso and into the open anchorage of Cabo San Lucas, the anchor was down in 50' of water, 200 yards off the beach and among some 75 other boats that had arrived before us. With the light of sun in the morning, it was evident that another 50 boats had arrived during the night, filling most of the desirable anchorage area and beyond. The day was warming quickly and we had the task of "Checking In", a matter of paperwork, port fees, and visits to 4 offices spaced about a mile and a half apart in Cabo, so after getting the dinghy in the water and the outboard mounted, it was off to town, followed by 3 hours of walking, waiting, waiting and walking - but honestly, it took much less time than I anticipated. That afternoon, the sponsors threw a big beach party lasting well into the evening, giving everyone the opportunity to visit and recap the last 11 days since leaving San Diego, for in the morning boats would begin to leave for the special destinations that would mark the start of the next portion of their cruising itineraries. The next day was spent relaxing in the sun, a shopping visit to town, preparation to leave the following day and finally, an awards presentation, where all boats were determined to finish no lower than 3rd place, and 1st and 2nd place winners were decided by arbitrary and undisclosed rules. Afterall, the purpose of this rally was to see everyone safely arrive in Cabo and have fun doing it !! Now all the participants were on their own in sunny Mexico and we left the next morning for the 150 mile bash north in the Sea of Cortez to La Paz. Rounding the tip of Baja presents some real changes in weather and climate. Sea temperature rises to 82-84 degrees and the winds tend to blow steadily from the north whereas on the Pacific coast they have a more northwesterly component. Because of the tidal currents flowing into the Sea, the waves tend to be steeper and much closer together - referred to as "square waves" - and much more uncomfortable when one has to sail or motor against them. You who have been here know just what I mean !!! Well, I won't bore you with detail, suffice to say that within 10 miles of leaving Cabo it was head seas and water on deck for the next 35 miles to a protected anchorage at Los Frailes, where the swimming in 83 degree water and the long white beach almost made up for the 10 hours of bashing into 5' seas and 25 knot winds. After spending a rest day there, we headed off around the point for the next available protection, Ensenada de los Muertos, another 45 mile bash into head seas, winds and just possibly the most uncomfortable day of boating I have yet to enjoy - anywhere!! Once again though, the anchorage was beautiful, the beach was white and we enjoyed fresh tuna, bought from a local fisherman and barbequed on the shore, while we visited with new friends and wondered about the others that were just now starting out from Cabo or Frailes - at least there were only 55 miles to go to La Paz. I had decided that run would best be made at night when the wind moderated somewhat, so we raised anchor at 2130 hrs and motored around the point into a manageable swell and light winds. By 0800 the next morning the anchor was down in 13' of water about 100 yds off the malecon (seawall) in the heart of La Paz, the capital of Baja California. I've now been here 4 weeks (well, there's another story) and I'm preparing to leave in the next few days to cross the Sea of Cortez and spend the winter along the mainland coast - first stop San Blas and then south at least to Manzanillo, with many stops in between. Some initial comments about southern Baja: The weather is great - warm and dry with the odd cloudy day now and then; Prices for most things are well below U.S. - maybe 30-50% lower and I'm sure the income levels are much, much lower, and the people seem very happy with their way of life here; There is no begging or panhandling and no evidence of crime, although most drivers here would be jailed if in the U.S.; I'm looking forward to seeing and learning more of this country and it's people on the mainland in the next several months. That's it for now, Hasta luego, mi amigos y bueno vientos marineros, Terry, still aboard S/V "Secret O' Life" AND - I want to wish all of you a Very Merry Christmas and a Joyous and Prosperous New Year !!!!
Position Report - Sea Of Cortez Date: 15 December 1999
	Joyous Holiday Greetings from Lat 22 - 55.2, Lon 107 - 42.0, the middle of the Sea of Cortez (Golfo de California on some charts). It's 0900 on 15 December, 1999, and I'm about 135 NM east of Cabo San Lucas, with about 160 NM to go to San Blas, on the mainland. For once, the sailing has been primo, with winds from the north, 15-18 kts, and the sea relatively light, 3-4' swell, fairly close. I left Ensenada de los Muertos yesterday morning at 0830, and 24 hours later had covered 133 NM !!! (This is good mileage for S/V "Secret O' Life") I left La Paz Saturday at 1000 hrs on the front of a rapidly building Norther, in company with 3 other boats heading for los Muertos and then across the Sea. Muertos is the first protected bahia south of the La Paz headlands, and a common jumping off point for crossing. We all had a sleigh ride downwind for 45 miles in 20-25 kts with 5-8' seas on the stern. Once into Muertos with the anchor down in calm water, we knew we would be there for a day or two waiting for the Norther to blow out. There were a total of 12 sailboats at anchor - all paying close attention to the daily forecasts, which finally called for a fairly calm 24-36 hour window beginning Tuesday morning. Most of the boats left the anchorage early yesterday, with destinations of Mazatlan, San Blas or Puerto Vallarta. The wind built quickly and after sailing off the anchor at Muertos, we had 12-15 kts within 2 hours. With these short, steep seas, it stays a little rolly, but we were fortunate in having almost 8 hours of great flat water sailing yesterday before they built to a less comfortable size. The wind stayed up through the night and is forecasted to build slightly today, however the closer we get to the mainland, the less influence the Norther will have. The weather report for Mazatlan today was light and variable winds, high temp 82, clear sky !! We all feel very lucky to have this great weather for crossing, since while at anchor in Muertos we talked via radio with several boats less fortunate and caught out in the middle of their crossing - the reports from them were not good. If the weather calms down by the time we reach Isla Isabella (about 40 NM offshore of San Blas and a protected bird sanctuary) we all plan to stop and spend a day there. More on La Paz: The capital of Baja California, the name means "The Peace", and it truly is a peaceful city in an arid desert, bordered by a large, shallow harbor that prevents any ships larger than about 150-180' (12' draught) from entering. There is a large commercial district with shops providing anything one would want; several large department stores; 4 Supermercados (SuperMarkets??) endless small Tiendas (Corner grocery) and a multitude of sidewalk food vendors, each with a specialty to entice the customers away from the competition. Examples: Fish tacos, served up with all the condiments you could want, 7 pesos ($0.75), or these huge clams, 11 pesos - she takes out the meat from a big 4" clam, dices it up, mixes with some fresh salsa, adds cheeze and a little cream, then puts it all back in the clamshell, wraps with foil and steams it on the grill - outrageous !!! It's amazing, the little backstreet corners where you'll find these vendors with a bar-b-que, a prep table and a couple of those white plastic chairs and tables for the customer. Of course, caution is required, for while I've been free of it myself, several friends have felt the ravages of the dreaded "Tourista" or "Montezuma's Revenge" and one has to think that some of these vendors may be the source. La Paz municipal water is lab certified potable, so I had no qualms about filling my tanks. The ice, however, may or may not be made from "Agua Purificado" so one must make that determination before consuming. By far the best grocery deal here is avocados - about $0.10 each and perfect !! Tomatoes also are very cheap, so we eat a lot of salsa and guacamole. Aside from the commercial center there is a long "Malecon" (waterfront street/walkway) with shops and restaurants - and anchorage just off for the cruisers. As you ply the back streets you encounter beautiful gated homes mixed in with the occasional auto repair or wholesale warehouse - zoning hasn't occurred here yet. The main streets are paved, some still with the original round stones, but most are just sand - there's a lot of sand around here!! A couple weeks back another couple and I took the bus to Todos Santos, about 75 miles south and on the Pacific coast - 30 pesos for the bus, one way. Todos Santos is one of the oldest towns in Baja, with beautiful examples of the early architecture and building practices, but unfortunately the gringo has found the spot and the town is full of gift shops and restaurants with prices much higher than La Paz - rivalling Cabo !! It is a beautiful location though, on a hill, heavily planted with palmtrees and overlooking the Pacific about 2 miles west. What else ?? The weather - warm most days, low 80's, and 60's at night with a clear sky and light afternoon breeze. It's not all perfect, however, for when the Northers blow (for as long as 3-4 days at a time) it makes the anchorage uncomfortable and the malecon unenjoyable, while in the city the wind is hardly noticed. And, just before I left we had a cold front come through with day temps mid 70's, nights low 50's - Brrrrrrrr !! There is, however, NO RAIN !!! I will undoubtedly encounter some of that on the mainland south of PV. The climate along the "Gold Coast" is much more tropical, lush, green, and somewhat rainy. I plan to try and make Bahia Tenacatita for Christmas, Barra de Navidad for New Years and then Las Hadas (location where "10" was filmed), near Manzanillo by Jan 10 or so. By the middle of Feb I'll start working my way north again to be back in La Paz by April. Remember, the invitation is open (space available) if any of you want to spend a week on the boat - Alaska flys into La Paz, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo - and I'll be visiting all those spots between now and then. Well, I just poked my head outside - nothing but water and blue sky for 360 degrees. The wind is holding at 15-18 kts, the sea's building slightly, so it's becoming a chore to move around in the boat - Yeah, you should experience the thrill of making coffee and breakfast - and then eating it, in this stuff !! My GPS sez I'm 108 NM from Isla Isabella, 148 from San Blas, I'm dead on the bearing of 113 degrees mag, doing 6 kts over the ground (as opposed to through the water which is affected by currents, etc). The wind vane has been doing the steering since I left Muertos, so I just have to keep a look out and eat, read and rest. (To be continued) For now, anyway. Hasta luego, mi familia y amigos, Terry, in the Sea of Cortez, aboard S/V "Secret O' Life" Click HERE for more "Cruising Mexico".