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GAMBIER ISLANDS, FRENCH POLYNESIA
SAILING
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April 1992
We took our leave of Pitcairn Island, and went sailing off to Gambier Island, only 300 miles away. The first day we had wonderful sailing - 8 - 10 knot breeze, flat, flat seas, sky a clear blue with just little puffs of cloud. The wind was right on
the yacht's nose, so we were only doing about 5 knots to weather, but it was so comfortable we didn't care. In 24 hours we had made 109 miles through the water, but just 86 miles to destination, but we didn't really care, since the sailing was so lovely. Of course, we should have known that this was not going to last, and it didn't. The wind shifted back into the east, and with it came bigger seas and lots more wind. 120 miles from Gambier we were doing 9.5 knots and the wind and seas were getting dangerous, so we kept reefing down, but even without a headsail we were doing 7.5 knots. Now we were going too fast, we were going to arrive at Gambier at night if we didn't slow down drastically. The wind vane wouldn't steer us in the following seas and gusty conditions, and our batteries were too low to run the autopilot, so we finally dropped all sails and started the engine to give us the juice needed for the autopilot. Even with the engine on idle we were doing 5 knots under bare poles. It was a very uncomfortable night. At sunrise the wind had abated to 20-25 knots, so we put up the Genoa and
motor-sailed to Gambier. |
| Fortunately the French believe in buoys, and Gambier is the closest inhabited island to their nuclear testing sites in the
Tuomotus. The entrance into the lagoon was quite straightforward in daylight, except that for the first five miles into the lagoon we had only a range of two points of Mangareva Island to use to get us to the channel, and the wind was still blowing a solid 15 knots, with rain squalls coming through and blanketing out our view of the islands. So it was slow going. But after winding through the channel into
Rikitea, which has a lovely anchorage behind lots of reef, making it quite calm even though it's a lee shore, we dropped anchor and could relax. It was Sunday, late in the afternoon, and we all just secured everything and went to sleep. We must have been quite tired, because we all slept straight through until the next morning - 15 hours!
We are finally in French Polynesia! Mangareva is the largest of the Gambler Islands, but it's not so large - one can walk completely around the island in about six hours. The picture in our "Landfalls of Paradise" show Mangareva as quite desolate, but now it is now a lush island, with papaya, grapefruit, bananas, breadfruit, and mangos growing wild. This is where the black pearls are cultured, so the people are quite affluent. However, like all French islands, things are quite casual. The last supply ship got caught in a tropical storm coming here, so they lost all the propane and gasoline that they were carrying on deck. The flour in the hold got wet, and so did a great many of the other provisions that were coming here, so supplies of just about everything except canned butter and milk and cheese are in short supply. (Not that there's much of anything even under the best of circumstances, we understand). Just because some essentials were lost doesn't mean that they're going to send another supply ship out early - oh, no, one must keep to the schedule - so they don't expect another ship (and therefore flour, propane, etc.) until June. Bread is therefore being rationed - they bake bread every other day - and we can only get two loaves at a time, so each of us goes in separately to get our two loaves.
We can't just casually catch fish, because there is so much ciguatera here, so we have to go out beyond the fringing reef to catch tuna, and the lobsters have been fished out to supply Tahiti, so we are pretty much living on boat stores. Good thing that we like pizza (we can get good New Zealand cheese here) and spaghetti and rice and grapefruit. But the people are nice, the island is quite pretty, and it's a good stopping and resting place before we continue on into the heart of French Polynesia.
We won't stay here too long but we have some things to fix before we leave (always something to fix) and do some diving to find some great shells.
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