Papua New Guinea cruising and sailing guide and information.

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA
The following is taken primarily from past issues of the Commodore’s Bulletin of the Seven Seas Cruising Association, with some additions, notes and information from WATERMELON. The date and p. number in parentheses refers to the date and page of the SSCA bulletin. I cannot reproduce the chartlets and sketch charts. We found that in many cases the SSCA information was superior to Alan Lucas’ guide (now out of print). All this was compiled before computer scanners were around, so much information is no longer available unless you obtain from the SSCA directly.

Samarai is a port of entry. Trading is the main occupation in remote places where money has no value. They like tobacco sticks (available in Samarai), light fishing gear, clothes, tinned meat, balloons for the children and sweets, etc.. Bar soap, pens, magazines with lots of pictures (they will ask for “books”, but generally they mean magazines), especially women’s magazines, and anything with Princess Diana in it. WATERMELON note: The islanders, have very little sense of comparative value. They cannot distinguish between a 14K gold chain necklace and a $1.00 costume jewelry chain. Clothes are extremely popular (children’s clothes as well as adult clothing, especially t-shirts). Biros (ball-point pens) and school exercise books were in great demand. Costume jewelry was a hit in Bagaman Island. Coffee, particularly instant coffee. Tools of any sort. I gave the children balloons for fun. I did not give them much candy. Old reading glasses were immensely popular and useful (one cruiser on his second and third visits brought old reading glasses donated by his local Lion’s Club. What a wonderful gift!) We also helped them with gear for their sailing canoes. Their sails are usually stitched together rice bags and line picked up off the beach and tied together to make long lengths. Any line at all in long unbroken lengths is valued highly.

The coastal villages and the people were a delight. Much English is spoken in the south.

Beware of thieves - should lock boat if left unattended (WATERMELON did not encounter this problem, and didn’t lock up). Worst incident was Egum Atoll, boat's decks, liferings and dodgers were slashed with bush knives because owner wouldn't pay $100 for pilotage through the reef. Does have malaria, including the Chloroquine resistant form. Australian doctors recommend Chloroquine plus Maloprim. (Druggist in Port Vila suggested single doses of Fansidar and Primaquine as cures if we did get malaria).

Visas should be obtained prior to entering the country. They are normally good for two months. Extension requests involve sending passports to Port Moresby where they generally get lost for some weeks, which thus provides an automatic extension, even if refused. You must obtain a clearance from the port of departure to the port of destination (even within PNG). Very important and failure to do so will create serious problems and delays.

(4/92, p.133) Always go ashore to meet the chief or councilman as soon as it is convenient and always talk to those who come to the boat. We have been told by the councilmen that this is the polite thing to do and by doing so, the locals become your friends. This also gives the locals a secure feeling about you...we have found that the people respect your privacy after the initial visits. The people have all been polite and friendly and the children lovely, no rascals and no sticky fingers. November and December are a very good time of year to enjoy them as there are very light winds in the area (between Monsoons) and lots of sun.

(5/92, p.180) It has been getting bad press for the "rascal" problem. We have encountered only honest and friendly people and no thievery. Of course, we don't flash wealth, and we always visit the chief of each village we anchor in front of and make friends with the people. They are astute traders and love to bargain. We trade fairly with them and they respect that, as sometimes some silly yachties have just given away too much and spoiled the game.

I have tried to organize this alphabetically, though there are some lapses.

AFATI BAY - (4/88, p.136) past Cape Nelson, is beautiful, well protected and you might meet John Peter and family. From the snug inner harbour at Dregerhafen, we hitchhiked a few kilometers north, past the airport, where there are several markets, a bakery and a bank. Note that the Vitiaz Strait forms a great venturi for the SE trades. We shot through, pushed by 35 knot winds and a strong current - fun for a few hours, but definitely a one-way street.

BASILAKI ISLAND - (5/92, p.176) —UJames Bay˜ at the extreme SE corner of Basilaki Is. is a pretty spot, and it is only a daysail away from Samarai. The very best anchorage is behind Haines Island near a broken-down dock in 42 feet of sand. The rest of the bay is full of mangroves. The people of the two villages there are very friendly and unused to yachts.

BONVOULOIR GROUP - (5/92, p. 178)..checked out Hastings and Stratford Islands.
Stratford Islands, the lagoon seems to average about 3 feet deep right on out to the sheer cliff drop-off, where about 50 feet out we had no soundings ...checked out west and south sides and found no anchorage.

Hastings has a very nice anchorage in crystal-clear water with 150 feet visibility in about 40 feet sand between coral patches. It is a spectacular island with 700-foot cliffs and caves. It is also another uplifted atoll (see chartlet).

BOUGAINVILLE - (11/89,p.428) Kieta port of entry. call on Ch. 16 to Harbor Control produced instructions. Full clearance w/ both immigration and customs is now done on the wharf. [note: as of 7/92, separatists fighting on island, so may not be safe]. A mooring can usually be obtained at the Kieta Yacht Club, advisable as water is up to 100 feet deep.

Tonelei Harbor, an excellent anchorage on the south end of Bougainville Island is a protected bay just a mile or so around from the light on the reef. Anchorage very protected and villagers friendly and generous.

Bramble Cay - is indeed hard to see

CHRISTMAS ISLAND˜ - (4/88, p. 137) we liked. A casino to attract Singapore gamblers may be going in. The honor system is still on for drinks at the yacht club. Chinese food next door and up on the hill is excellent. There is a bank. You do not need an Australian visa. The air-conditioned supermarket received fresh produce twice a week by air. Both fuel and water are available. Anchor on a sand patch near the lighter pier if you can find room; otherwise lots of lock with coral, old mooring chains, etc., etc. If the NW swell comes in, you lose.

CONFLICT GROUP - (5/92, p.178) is an uninhabited atoll with numerous anchorages around the lagoon. There are no villages there, but many sailing canoes pass through the atoll on their way to various islands in the Louisiade Archipelago. There are plenty of fish and coconuts, and on one island, Auriroa, there is clean fresh water. [WATERMELON note: we did not find the water]. The lagoon is crystal clear and easy eyeball navigation...anchored off Panabol Island (see chartlet).

DEBOYNE ISLS. - (2/91, p.48) has a good anchorage on the north side of Navani Island. The people are pleasant and friendly.

Samarai Isl. is a small island and a major clearing point for yachts. We slowly walked around the island in one hour. The anchorage is an open roadstead with lee shelter from SE trades but north to nor-westers could be a problem.

DOGURA MISSION - (4/88, P. 136)..with its large school and hospital was one interesting stop. The cathedral is visible from miles away. A deep anchorage at 28 meters, off the half-ruined pier was the best we could find.

HEMOE BAY - ("ONDINE", 2/88, P.30) see sketch chart, because Alan Lucas' Guide is completely wrong and does not mention a dangerous coral head right on the way to the far end of the bay.

HUMMOCK ISLAND - ("ONDINE", 2/88, P.30) a most beautiful place where the people are really nice and honest. The sketch shows where to anchor. The entrance looks tricky but is not if conducted with cautiousness and in good light conditions. (5/92, p.176) The chief of the village of Tewa Tewa is Romulus and he is keeping an interesting yacht book for us to sign. There are anchorages there in all winds and any yacht that draws 9 feet or less should have no problem negotiating the bank in to the anchorage. (See sketch chart) for more anchorages.

KITAVA ISL. - (5/92, p. 179) east of Kiriwina Isl. in the Trobriands. It is also a raised atoll about 200 feet high. UP the hill and into the bowl-like center lie three villages. We hiked to the first village, where the school was; they get a small tourist boat in every month or so and were quite used to Europeans...second village an hour further and were astounded how primitive they were. The whole village came out to meet us with various items for trade. We were totally surrounded. A lot of the people wore grass skirts or pandanus wraps and only one spoke English. We held court for an hour trading. (see chartlet for anchorage).

LASSUL BAY - (4/92, p.133)(Gazelle Peninsula) Nice anchorage on the east side of the bay behind the reef. In the old Lucas guide the anchorage listed was occupied by a freighter loading lumber and so we found 40' between reef and village directly east of the Lucas anchorage. Nice snorkeling on the reef around the island to the north and some nice snorkeling on the protecting reef.

LAUGHLAN ISLAND - (11/89, P.429) these islands form a horseshoe open to the west. Entered lagoon between the reef off Lisilus Island and a sand cay in very bad visibility with no problems. Anchored in lee of Lisilus Isl. for shelter from prevailing Northerlies but the chief, Lalam Popola later guided us to an anchorage in front of the main village, Budi-Budi, on Budaduna Is. Locals very friendly. Not many yachts call here.

LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO - ("ONDINE", 2/88, P.30) a wonderful cruising ground. Local people like to see yachties and do not hesitate to come alongside in their outriggers to watch the poor yachtsmen in his daily activities. They sometimes hang there for hours and it is good to have curtains to prevent them from peeping inside the boat. In some places they just jump on board and one has to entertain them. We were told that our topsides would suffer from these visits, but we found that untrue and since if they are asked to care, they do so! Children are, above all, very careful.

Abaga Gaheia, good anchorage in southeast to northeast weather, almost completely surrounded by reef. Lots of crayfish, which the locals will trade.

Bagaman Isl., a protected anchorage with two friendly villages who will trade crayfish, model canoes, fruit, vegetables, shells, etc. for the usual trading items. Do not anchor in too close as lots of yachts have had anchor foul-ups in the reefy outcrops. It is better to stay out in 50 or 60 feet and avoid the problem.

(11/89, p.429) Deboyne Lagoon: entered by Redlick Pass with a minimum depth of 30 feet. The pass at the eastern end of the lagoon leading to South Passage may be preferable in heavy weather. Chart AUS382 showed reef and beacons on the southern side of thiis pass, but in Oct. '88 there was an island there and no beacons.

Nirvani Isl. was a beautiful anchorage with a slight roll in strong southeast weather.

Hati Lawi Bay, on Pana Tinani Isl., a good anchorage in strong northerly weather but watch for reef patches in the rather murky water.

Moturina Isl., anchored in Riman Bay. While there, boarded and searched by PNG naval vessel MADANG. Boarding party of four were very friendly and polite, but they were armed and had on steel helmets. They said they were searching for drugs, excessive alcohol and pornographic literature. Nimoa Isl., anchored in the bay on the western side of the isl. in 45 feet over sand. It is well-protected from southeast to northeast weather, but we had to move the next day when the wind came around to the north. There is a thriving Catholic mission, hospital, and beautiful area.

Utian Isl., know locally as Brooker Isl.: the pass leads off the East Brooker Passage and is just a shallow and narrow pass in the barrier reef. We had a minimum depth of 12 feet near low tide. Watch the sideways tide sweep as you do not have much room for error. then steer toward a mark in the lagoon with a fishing float on top, which marks a shallow reef. Leave it to starboard and you then have clear, deep water around to the anchorage in the bay in front of the main village. People are quite prosperous from fishing and have large numbers of beautifully built sailing canoes. They made clay pots which we did not see anywhere else.

Wanim Isl. (known locally as Grass Isl.), excellent anchorage on the north side. Water is avail. from a shoreside tap, from a dam up above, but boil before use. There is a nice sandy beach.

MADANG - (4/88, p. 136) is beautiful, provisioning good, diesel at the Shell dock, water is a problem. The yacht club no longer exists, nor does the marina, which in any case is a noisy place with the diesels of the power station just across the way. We preferred to anchor off. A yacht may not be left unattended after dark or it will be broken into. We suggest going 3 miles north to Nagada Bay. Leaving, watch for a possible strong NW set toward Bagabag Island.

MISIMA ISLAND - (11/89,P.429) on passage the westerly current was so strong that the course of 200 degrees magnetic was achieved by steering 185 degrees magnetic for the entire 100-mile voyage, so once again be cautious in this area. Mining operation on Misima Isl. has a large loom at night, clearly visible from well out to sea, and this is some aid to navigation. Bwagaoia, the clearing port on Misima Isl. is regularly used by relatively large ships, so anchor as far down toward the end as the shoaling mud will allow. Customs and Imm. are a short walk up the hill. Customs will issue a clearance for Australia with permission to cruise in the Calvados Chain en route for reasonable periods, which is a great convenience and privilege. [WATERMELON Note: Water was undrinkable here. We obtained water from an island freighter captained by a friendly Aussie who let us pull up alongside and he gave us all the water we wanted, including enough to wash down our decks! We gave him some books in humble gratitude (we had less than 4 liters of water left when we arrived in Misima and discovered we couldn’t get any potable water!)] [Second WATERMELON note: An Australian boat arrived in Misima from the Solomon Islands without have obtained a visa beforehand. The officials gave the boat less than 24 hours to leave PNG! However, another Australian yacht without a visa was given two weeks to clear PNG. We cannot explain the differences, except that the bigwig Immigration guy wasn’t there for this second yacht, but just pass on the advice to be sure you have a visa before you arrive in PNG]

MUKAWA MISSION - (4/88, P.136) west of Cape Vogel, anchored in 5 meters, 150 True to the church and were received by some 40 laughing children who swam out to greet us.

NAGADA BAY - (4/88, P. 136) 3 miles north of Madang: idyllic surroundings, good holding, no security problem and with the Jais Aben Resort/Research Station at the entrance. Yachtsmen are welcome and water and electricity are available at their dock for a small fee.

NEW BRITAIN ISLAND˜, RABAUL - (4/88, p. 136 – pre-volcano) is prosperous and pleasant. The yacht club is friendly, the cuisine at the Travel Lodge is excellent. The open fruit and vegetable market is easily the best that we have seen. The water, unfortunately, has a high sulphur content, and it is either catch your own, or find a local friend with a large cistern. (6/88, P.206) Christmas in Rabaul sees a gathering of yachts.

RENNEL ISLAND - (4/88, p. 136) Rather than continue through the Torres Strait at night, anchored here. Next day, were glad we did, for the corner at Bet Reef turned out to be a bit tricky with the reef extending quite a way past the light and the large wreck.

RUA SURA ISL. - (8/90,P.322)..has a small village. Anchor in the lagoon-like area near the village.. It is mostly 60 ft. deep with an all coral bottom.

SAHUL BANK - There are four oil platforms (4/88, p.136), brightly lit. 12S, 12511'E.

SALAKI ISLAND - ("ONDINE", 2/88, P.30) Badauna Bay is at the SE corner and it is a good anchorage (see sketch chart).

SAMARAI - is still a port of entry and formalities there were easy and short. Worthwhile to mention Ian Pool at the Osiris Supermarket who is always very kind to passing yachties. (6/88,p.206) plenty of excellent anchorages, including some real hurricane holes, and day-sailing with lunch stops is generally possible if desired. Going SE in open water when the trades are strong is obviously to be avoided.

TALELE ISL. - (4/92, p.133) These are now a national park and definitely should be. The most beautiful coral formations and colorful fish we have seen anywhere. The rough sketch is of an anchorage, good protection from most winds, except strong easterlies. There is not another one anywhere that we could find. Anchored on a 40' shelf which was fine until a squall moved in from the east ...anchor held, but we had some tense moments.

TALILI BAY - (4/92, p.133)(Gazelle Peninsula) A bit rolly, but steer for the Kulau resort and you will find 12' in sand right off the bluffs to the east of the resort.

VIGILANT CHANNEL - Be vigilant in Vigilant Channel. Corner at Bet Reef a bit tricky with the reef extending quite a way past the light and the large wreck. (2/91, p.48) Beware of being able to locate the east light at Vigilante Pass. It is obscured during daylight hours by a wreck close by. The south side of the wreck marks the turning point west into the pass and it is not on our corrected charts.

VITIAZ STRAIT - see Afati Bay˜.

WAYA ISLAND - (5/92, p. 176) Anchor in 22' of white sand and protected in almost all winds. There is a current that runs throughout the anchorage but it is not so bad. The island has a beautiful mission church on the hill that is worth a visit.